A Week in Slab City

August 14, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Road Trips, Travel, USA

It’s been a pretty hot week hanging out in the middle of the desert in Slab City. The average outside temperature has been 110°. The temperature in the van stays at or below the outside temperature during the day, but stays hot during the night even when the desert cools. Surprisingly, I’ve become pretty adjusted to the heat and it barely bothers me anymore. Granted, I’d still love it to be 80° or below.

Last Saturday night I checked out The Range to see what kind of music the residents of Slab City perform. I’ll admit, it wasn’t the greatest thing in the world, but it was better than nothing. At least half the people there were pot heads, so I’m sure it was a better time for them. The Range is open every Saturday evening for anyone to come up and showcase their talent. You don’t even have to be good!

I left after about an hour and walked the short distance back to the open gravel area where I had parked my van. The night sky is absolutely gorgeous here and I stayed outside for a bit enjoying the stars and listening to the music from The Range. It sounded a lot better from a distance.

I’ve spent the majority of time either watching The Office or reading. I’ve gone through three books in the past week (A Wrinkle in Time, The Great Gatsby, and The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry) and started two others (Walden and At the Water’s Edge). It’s nice to finally be getting some reading done, but only two of the books I’ve read so far have been actual books; the others have all been digital books. I brought an entire stack of real books with me and my goal was to get through them all before this trip ends. I’m not doing that well so far.

My internet out in the desert isn’t that great so I haven’t been able to use Duolingo to practice any Spanish. I have, however, started working on my sign language. I bought a book on it over a year and a half ago, like many of the other books I have, but never really focused on it. So far, I can sign my numbers up to 30 (the book doesn’t go above that), know all of my alphabet, and have the signs for 11 colors memorized. The book also contains 1,000 words that I slowly need to start working on. I’ve been interested in learning American Sign Language since 2005, maybe 2006, when I was in Baltimore with my friend Steve and he randomly started signing to a guy on the street one night.

I’ll admit, I have not been practicing the guitar that much. I think there’s only been two nights, at most, in the past week that I’ve practiced. It’s been so hot and sweaty that it’s just not something I wanna do.

I watched some of the meteor showers the other day. Most of the ones I saw were barely glimpses, but there was one really awesome one that had a huge trail streaking across the sky. For some reason a lot of people were out that night driving around, including what I assume was the local sheriff because they were shining a spotlight around and it was really quite annoying.

Here are some pictures from sunset a few days ago. Despite being a sulfur-smelling desert filled with a hundred or more little shanty houses, it can be a quite beautiful place.

I’ll probably stay in this area until Tuesday and then I’ll be heading to San Diego to hopefully do some hikes or something with my friend Janice and then meet up with Szilvia on Thursday to start the second part of this trip.

Slab City, California

August 7, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 309.4
Miles hiked: 0

I woke up today, near the border of Nevada and California, after one of the coolest nights I’ve had in the van in the past few weeks. Even though the temperature read as 86°, it felt fantastic compared to the above 90° temperatures that it has been.

I took a very relaxing morning and watched the second Divergent movie, Insurgent. I did some reading for a bit, too, but as the temperature increased, I became more and more tired from reading. I decided to get some driving done, not fully sure on where I was destined.

I headed West for a couple hours before stopping in Bartow, California and was gonna camp out at the Walmart there. After stopping for five minutes and using their bathroom, I decided that town was not for me. The bathroom had the most foul odor I’ve encountered in a long time. The store itself was an older looking store and seemed as if it had not received any love since the early 90s. No, thanks.

I continued driving for another hour until stopping at yet another Walmart, hoping it would be better than the last. Thankfully, it was. Though, I swear it had more cameras in the ceiling than one of the Vegas casinos. Pure insanity. I was there for around an hour, debating on what to do. Since I’ll be driving around California for almost the next month with Szilvia, I didn’t want to see anything now that she might want to see later. I debated on hiking a portion of the John Muir Trail, but it was so out of the way from where I was and I wasn’t sure what I’d do with my van for however long I’d be hiking, so I ruled that out as well.

Then I remembered about Slab City and knew that wasn’t one of the places planned for the next month. It was 187 miles away, deep in Southern California out in the Sonoran Desert. It was decided. I was headed to Slab City.

For those not familiar with Slab City, it used to be the location of some Marine barracks, but after WWII the barracks were removed, leaving only the concrete slabs behind. The land was given to the state of California and since that time squatters, campers, and other travelers have taken to living there. In the summer, the Slabs are pretty empty due to the desert heat and most travelers migrating North. In the winter, it’s said that there are thousands of travelers (“snowbirds”) that call this place home.

There is no running water. There is no electricity. There’s no sewer, toilets, garbage pickup, or other city services of any kind. Slab City does not officially exist. There are no rules and no parking or camping fees. People are here just being people and living life without restrictions. It’s quite magical.

There’s an ever changing art display painted onto a concrete bunker on the road leading up to Slab City. It’s almost like a “welcome” sign. I really like the “Danger: Reality Ahead” as you head back out to the real world.

One of the first sights you will see upon entering Slab City is Salvation Mountain, a huge mound of earth covered in concrete, adobe, and paint and plastered with bible verses. It was project of two decades built by a single man. Although I’m not religious by any means, I still appreciate the artistic and creative aspect of what he built.

Anyone up for a boat ride? A random boat, also located at Salvation Mountain.

As I sit here, watching the day transcend into night, listening to some dogs bark across the way, I can’t help but be overcome by a sense of freedom you can’t find most places. Even when I camp out at Walmart, there’s always an itch in the back of my mind worried about how long I stay there for fear of crossing whatever magic number of hours it is before Walmart decides you are no longer welcome. It is an almost constant distraction when camped in other, more random locations. But not here. Not in Slab City.

I’ve been here for barely an hour and love it. And not just for the ability to pull off the road anywhere and camp without being hassled about living a different kind of life. It’s the vastness. The emptiness. The desolation. It’s hard to put into words how beautiful those things can be.

I’m not sure how long I’ll stay here, but I have 13 days before I need to be in San Diego. It might be one day, it might be 12. Since I got here late in the evening, I’m not sure how bad the daytime temperatures will be yet. I’m for sure staying through tomorrow, as every Saturday evening they have an open performance of music or whatever other talent someone wants to showcase at a “nightclub” called The Range. I’m really looking forward to it.

As I finish writing this, nightfall has almost entirely engulfed the sky. The lack of light pollution, combined with a clear day like today, makes for a stunning display of stars.

Viva Las Vegas

August 6, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 176.9
Miles walked: ~20 (over three days)

I’ve been in Vegas for the past few days and honestly haven’t felt up to writing by the end of each day. But before I talk about Vegas, I want to go back to three days ago because I’m pretty excited about some improvements I made to the van. When I camped out that night, I decided to head over to the automotive isle in Walmart. Although I didn’t get what I went there for, I came across a clip-on oscillating fan that was designed to be plugged into a car’s DC outlet. One of the neat things about the fan was that it also came with a mount so that you could remove the clip-on part and permanently attach it to something.

I bought one of the fans and thought I’d try it out and see how well it worked. I have five recessed LED lights in the van that I thought would come in handy, but I haven’t used them at all since I started my trip. Since I wasn’t using the lights, I decided to reroute one of the electrical circuits to power the fan I’d just bought and mounted it on the rear wall above the bed. Once I had everything wired up, I tested it out and instantly loved it. So much so, that I went back in and bought a second fan to mount on the opposite wall. I’ve actually been looking for something like those fans and was very pleased to come across them. They’re a little louder than I would hope for such a small fan to be, but I’m ok with it since they blow air considerably better than the fan I’ve been using for the past month. I also love that they oscillate and I can position them to face any direction. It’s still hot in the van, but having these fans makes it a whole lot better.

Anywho, I did not plan to come to Vegas at this point in my journey, it just happened. It started the same day I bought the fans when I saw a friend post an update saying they were in Vegas. Since I was only 120 miles from Vegas, I figured it’d be nice to stop by on my way to wherever I’m going next (I still don’t know).

I headed out pretty early the next morning and arrived in Vegas a couple hours later. With plenty of time in the day, I drove down to the iconic Las Vegas welcome sign to be a tourist and get a picture of it. Even though I’ve been to Vegas a couple of times before, I have never taken the time to go out and see the sign. There’s nothing that fancy about it, but it’s a piece of history; like the Hollywood sign or Route 66.

I spent the first day playing penny slots just to get “free” drinks and then walked around for a bit before meeting up with my friend and her husband later in the evening. We chatted for awhile about my journey and reminisced about the idiocies of our old work office. And, boy, do I love to talk about how much I don’t like that place. They had tickets to one of the Vegas shows and since I’m way too cheap to pay for stuff like that, I called it an evening when they headed out. I camped at a Walmart that evening, only to realize the next morning that there were signs saying “no overnight parking”. Whoops, my bad. Luckily, I didn’t get towed or anything.

The next morning I played roulette for awhile and was up $125 making small, $5 bets. Somewhere along the line I got a little too confident in my winning streak and well, lets just say by the time I left the table, I was no longer up $125. I was no longer up at all. I’m now convinced that roulette is the devil… that, or it’s all rigged. Since it’s Vegas, it wouldn’t surprise me.

I met up with my friend and her husband and some other coworkers of theirs that afternoon. I spent a good chunk of time educating them all on Wisconsin’s greatness and all the amazing things or people that have come from there. Seriously. I can talk for hours about Wisconsin. We also played some more penny slots to get “free” drinks. They, again, were seeing a show that evening and I ended my night at that point.

Today, I didn’t do much at all. I spent the majority of the day reading an amazing book called The Ocean at the End of the Lane by Neil Gaiman which made me revel in childhood spirit. It was a fairly short book and I ended up reading the entire thing today. In the afternoon, I met up briefly with my friend and our other friend who just flew in this morning (there’s a huge nerd conference going on in Vegas right now). Later in the evening, I drove a little ways outside the city to escape from all the hustle and bustle. I’m not a big fan of large cities, crowded streets, and busy highways. I much prefer the simpler life.

I’m happy that I’m finally getting some reading done, as that was one of my goals for this trip; to read more. I even read about a quarter of a second book today. I’ve also been using Duolingo to practice my Spanish, as I really want to learn at least one language besides English (but ideally more than one). I’m no where near fluent, and might not ever be, but I can at least easily understand simple sentences at this point.

Now I just need to force myself to practice the guitar more. And by “more,” I mean I’ve only practiced once in the week I’ve had it. No bueno.

The Narrows, Zion National Park, Utah

August 3, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 78.4
Miles hiked: ~12

Today was wet. I spent the majority of the day walking through the Virgin River in the Zion Narrows. It’s a 10 mile “hike” down the river, round-trip. To get to the hike, there’s another two mile, round-trip, walk along the river you have to do. I’m honestly not sure how far I went, but I’m confident I made it close to the very end. It’s a very busy hike, in the beginning, and I hiked until I was alone. Then I kept hiking. I spent five and a half hours hiking in the water, only stopping for brief moments to take pictures and enjoy the scenery.

The water is fairly shallow for most of the way and averages at most two feet high. The deepest section came up to my belly button, which is probably around 40″ or so. I walked pretty slow through that section as the water increasingly got higher and the coldness crept up my body.

I don’t feel like writing a lot today. Instead, here’s 40 pictures for your enjoyment.

Observation Point, Zion National Park, Utah

August 1, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 78.3
Miles hiked: 8.0

Due to the possibility of flash floods in the Narrows at Zion, I used today to hike up to the 6,508 ft Observation Point. Although it was a tiring climb and it’s over 700 ft higher than Angels Landing, I don’t feel it was as rewarding (read: “challenging”). It does have nice views at the top and there’s a really beautiful canyon you get to walk through just before the halfway point. There’s also a significantly less amount of people on the trail compared to Angels Landing.

The trail starts out similarly to Angels Landing, hiking up a set of long, steep switchbacks that are part of the East Rim Trail. Roughly half way up the switchbacks, there’s a side trail for The Hidden Canyon, but it’s closed this year for construction. There’s a lot of beautiful views as you hike up, but unfortunately there’s not a good spot to look back down and see all the switchbacks.

Shortly after the switchbacks, there’s a gorgeous canyon you get to walk through. This is probably my favorite part of the entire trail.

The rest of the climb up follows a walkway built around the edge of the cliffs. It’s nonstop up and there are several more switchbacks along the way.

Eventually you’ll reach the top and follow a dirt path for about 10 minutes to walk out to Observation Point. From there, you can look down directly at Angels Landing and can see the people over there if you focus enough.

As I said earlier, I don’t feel it was as rewarding of a climb as Angels Landing. It was definitely a challenge and has great views, but Angels Landing has an added level of risk that just makes it more worthwhile.

I’ve hiked almost all the trails in the Zion Canyon area that are listed on the park map. There are three small trails I haven’t done and the 10 mile Narrows. I still have 18 days before I need to be in San Diego, so I’m not exactly in a rush.

Angels Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

July 31, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 93.7
Miles hiked: 5.4

Last night was another warm night. It stayed over 95° in the van until at least 2am, the last time I checked the thermometer. When I woke up at 6:30 this morning, it had dropped down to a “brisk” 89°. It’s gonna be such a relief when I get to California and out of this desert heat.

I headed back into Zion shortly after waking up. My only goal for today was to hike up to Angels Landing, which stands at 5,790 ft. I did not expect it to be as awesome as it was. Flat out, if you ever go to Zion National Park and aren’t scared of heights, hike up to Angels Landing. It was an awe inspiring view and simply making the climb is worth smiling for. To stand at the top, on the edge, looking straight down over 1,400 ft below really makes ya feel alive. I used to feel that way all the time after climbing Koko Head; complete and utter relaxation, intermixed with joy and the feeling of accomplishment.

The beginning of the trail walks you into the canyon and leads up to a set of long, steep switchbacks. I dare you to try to do them all without stopping for a break (stopping for pictures counts as a break, which is what I did).

After the switchbacks, there’s a small bridge and a short distance of relatively flat ground before you arrive at Walter’s Wiggles (yes, that’s what they’re really called). Walter’s Wiggles is another set of steep switchbacks, but they’re much shorter. They’re named after the park ranger who was responsible for the trail when it was first created almost 90 years ago, if I remember correctly. This is also the last tough section before reaching Scout Lookout, which is where many people stop at after seeing the last section of trail in front of them.

Here’s a cooler picture I found on Google that shows the Wiggles from a different angle.

From Scout Lookout, you can see the last 0.5 miles of trail that leads up to Angels Landing. It looks far more insane in person. Try to look at the pictures closely and focus on the people to gain perspective of its size. And then remember that this is a very narrow ridge and each side has a 1,400 ft drop. This is by far the best part of the trail.

The climb up was slow and crowded. You don’t have many opportunities to pass people, due to the narrow width of the climb. At the same time, people are climbing down the same path you need to climb up, so be patient. The view at the top will be worth the wait.

I didn’t stay at the top very long, as the sky was grey and I didn’t want to get stuck up there in the event it started to rain. I just had a quick snack and headed back down. The climb down is significantly more challenging than the climb up. Other than your footing has changed, you’re looking down the entire way. I tried getting a picture that showed what I mean, but I don’t think it really captured it.

Once you get back to Scout Lookout, the hike down is easy, but has a lot of impact on the knees. I took a lot more pictures on my way down than I did on my way up.

Today was a great day. I’d rank it as one of the top three of the entire trip so far. There’s another hike on the opposite side of the road called Observation Point, which is over 700 ft higher than Angels Landing. I still want to hike into the Narrows, but Observation Point is now on my list to do before I leave here. The Narrows is 10 miles, if you do the entire thing. Not to mention the two miles you have to do to get to the Narrows and back. The visitor center had a sign saying there’s a high risk of flash floods tomorrow, so I’m not sure what I’ll get done.

Zion National Park, Utah (Part 2)

July 30, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 128.5
Miles hiked: 4.85

I spent the day yesterday working a random asphalt job nearby. I have an entirely new outlook towards road construction. It is some hardcore, back-breaking work which my “pampered” lifestyle has not accustomed me to, especially in 100° or more. The people who do that stuff for a living should be paid more. And I don’t mean the employers, I mean the actual laborers. If you ever have a chance to talk to anyone working on a road crew, tell them thanks. We drive on roads and parking lots every day and the amount of work that goes into it is purely amazing.

Today I went back to Zion. I was honestly pretty sore from yesterday and barely hiked at all. I wasn’t that concerned with taking pictures, either; I just wanted to be in the moment.

The first hike I did is called the Watchman Trail, a 2.7 mile hike up to an overlook that gives views of lower Zion Canyon and the Towers of the Virgin. The trail starts out walking along the Virgin River. I don’t think the trail is as popular as others, as there weren’t many people along the way. It was a very tranquil walk along the river. I stopped and sat for awhile on the way back just listening to the water flowing.

On the way up, I caught the sun shimmering over a ridge line. This was one of the only photographs I took today, as it was too beautiful not to share.

At the end of the Watchman Trail, there’s a short loop trail that doesn’t seem to be documented in the park guide. I talked to the ranger at the information center and she wasn’t sure on the exact mileage, but agreed it was at least 0.4 miles. Granted, I walked the whole thing before I knew anything about it. You can’t go anywhere new by walking the path you already know. Oh, and I did think this tree root looked interesting.

After I finished the Watchman Trail, I headed over to the Pa’rus Trail. Both trails are accessible from the visitor center. The trail is actually a bike path that follows the Virgin River up to Canyon Junction, about 1.75 miles away. I only walked the trail one-way and ended up taking the shuttle back. It’s not a very interesting trail and is directly in the sun the entire time. I didn’t take a single picture along the way.

The temperatures in the van have been soaring in this heat. Yesterday when I looked, it was 108° F in there (100° outside); the max temperature in the van has been 112° F. The biggest downside of the increased heat is the fridge consumes more electricity to keep things cool. Since I haven’t been driving a lot lately, the batteries are relying entirely on solar power to charge and the fridge has been using all of that power by itself. At 6am this morning, the batteries were too low to power the inverter any longer and I had to shut it all down to give the batteries a chance to charge back up. Luckily, I don’t keep much in the fridge and was able to throw everything in the cooler. Without the fridge running, the batteries had a completely full charge from the solar panel by noon today when I got done hiking.

I also rigged up my fan to run directly off of DC power so that I can still use it when I shut the inverter off. That fan is my lifeblood at the moment and is the only thing that makes the van remotely bearable to sleep in. I’m gonna monitor the voltage tonight to see how much only running the fan and the lights uses up. Tomorrow night I’m gonna kick the inverter back on with nothing plugged in and test how much power it uses up to determine if it’s worth leaving on or not. Other than the fridge, I only use the AC power to plug in my laptop on occasion. Typically I charge it up while connected to the internet at McD’s or Starbucks, but an outlet isn’t always available.

Tomorrow will be the last day of the first month of living in the van. I’m fairly excited about it, to tell the truth. It’s insanely refreshing to know that “home” is wherever I want it to be.

Zion National Park, Utah (Part 1)

July 28, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven (since last post): 219.0
Miles hiked: 5.8

I took the last couple of days off. I spent one day in Cedar City, uploading my posts for the two previous days, then just relaxing. Another day I drove down to St. George and spent most of the day there. I ended up going to a pawn shop and buying a guitar so that hopefully I can force myself to learn how to play with all this free time I’ve been having in the afternoons. I’ve been buying guitars for 12 years, always telling myself I need to learn, then never actually learning, and eventually selling the guitar or giving it away. I’m hoping this time will be different… we’ll see.

Last night I decided I was gonna hit up Zion in the morning and so that is exactly what I did. Being that Zion is one of the more popular parks in Utah, I knew I needed to get there early to beat the traffic. I woke up shortly after 6:30 this morning and headed directly for the park, which is only about an hour Northeast of St. George. Since I got there before the visitor center even opened, there was plenty of parking available.

Zion is quite different from the other parks I’ve been to so far. In my opinion, they have a much better system in place to manage traffic and congestion. Most of the park you’re not allowed to drive private vehicles on without a special permit, unless it’s after October 25th. Instead, they have a free shuttle service that continuously drives through the park and you just get on and off at whatever stop you want. They say a shuttle comes by almost every 15 minutes, but I never had to wait more than five minutes. What I loved the most was that I didn’t have to fight for parking at each stop and I wasn’t using any gas to get around the park, which means I save money. I wish all the parks had a system like this, especially Yellowstone.

Since I had never been to Zion before and honestly knew almost nothing about it, I decided to take an easy day and focus on simple hikes and exploring the majority of the park to decide where I wanted to spend more time. My first stop was at the Emerald Pools Trails. There’s a Lower Pool, Middle Pool, and an Upper Pool. The Lower Pool has a lightly trickling waterfall that the trail goes behind, which is pretty cool. Altogether, it’s a 2.2 mile, round-trip, hike to see all the pools. On the way down from the pools, I decided to take the mile long Kayenta Trail over to the next shuttle stop and just get picked up from there.

From where the Kayenta Trail ends, you can jump onto the West Rim Trail to connect up with the Angels Landing Trail, a steep, narrow ridge to the summit that is not recommended for people who are afraid of heights. I skipped it for today due to the length of it, but I wanna hike it either tomorrow or the next day, depending on what else I try to cram into the day.

I jumped back on the shuttle and headed up to Weeping Rock. It’s a very short (0.4 mile, round-trip) hike. This is also the location to hike up the East Rim Trail, which has the Hidden Canyon Trail connected to it. I wanted to hike the Hidden Canyon, but apparently it’s closed this year for construction. I know at least part of the trail has a narrow ledge on the side of a cliff that has chains anchored into the cliffside for safety. Sounds awesome, right?! But, alas, I’ll have to come back here a different year to do that one. Most of the pictures I took at Weeping Rock didn’t come out or I didn’t like them.

Next stop was Big Bend, shortly up the road. It’s just a bend in the river, but it gives you a view of Angels Landing from the ground level and a couple other formations. I hiked down to the river area and followed an unmarked path for a short while, snapping up a few pictures along the way. I really love the one with the trees.

Then I headed up to the Temple of Sinawava, the last shuttle stop on the Zion Canyon road. There’s a two mile, round-trip, Riverside Walk that, as you may have guessed, follows the river into the canyons. At the end of the walk you have two options: 1) Turn around, or 2) Continue on by walking in the river for the next five miles in what they call The Narrows. When I talked to the lady at the visitor center this morning, she said the water only gets about waist deep, but it’s important to pick the right day to go, as there’s a risk of flash floods any time it rains. This is a hike I want to do for the pictures, but hiking 10 miles today just wasn’t the goal.

My last stop for the day was back towards the front of the park at the Court of the Patriarchs. I missed the stop on the way up. It’s a quick stop with a short hike up to an overlook area to get pictures of “The Patriarchs”, which are three large peaks grouped together.

Now that I have an idea of the park, I know where I want to focus some more time. I definitely want to hike the Angels Landing Trail, as well as three trails accessible at the visitor center area, I’d like to hike the Narrows, and I want to drive the Mount Carmel Highway that connects the Zion Canyon section of the park to the East side and has a 1.1 mile long tunnel in the middle of it. I’ll probably spend three or four days here to do it all.

I’m WAY ahead of schedule and even after I hang out in Zion for a few days, I have almost 20 days before I need to be in San Diego to meet up with Szilvia for the next portion of this adventure. I haven’t decided what to do with that free time yet or where to go.

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

July 25, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 31.5
Miles hiked: 9.2+

Today I did Capitol Reef, sticking to Hwy 24 that goes through the entire park. Off of 24, there’s a road that goes down part way through the park but it’s focused more on historical stuff that I’m honestly not that interested in. There’s a blacksmith shop, some old school buildings, the campground, and some other stuff down that way. There’s a couple other spots in the park to check out some Petroglyphs and an old stone building, but again, it just doesn’t interest me. I was there to view the natural beauty created by time, not some crap created by humans.

I started the day early and headed into the Grand Wash Trail before 8am. It’s a 2.2 mile trail, one-way, that follows a dried up river bed through the canyons. The trail is fairly wide almost the entire way, with the exception of an area near the center called The Narrows where it gets significantly more narrow (in case you didn’t guess that by its name). It was a very shaded hike with almost no incline at all.

At the end of the Wash, there’s a parking area and an information sign for the connecting trails. I was only planning on doing the Wash, but after reading that the Cassidy Arch was only 950 feet up and another 3 miles, round-trip, I decided it would be worth it to beat my feet a little longer. The arch is named after the infamous train robber Butch Cassidy, who supposedly had a hideout in the Grand Wash.

There were a couple of people rappelling down into the cavity behind the arch. They said they were rappelling all the way down into the canyon and there were several spots to keep going down, eventually making it back towards the parking lot that I initially hiked to through the Wash. Seemed like a much easier way to get down, if you ask me. I, unfortunately, hiked all the way back down and out like a sucker.

I was pretty tired after hiking the 7.4 miles for both of the trails, but it was only 11am and thought I’d check out at least one more thing so I headed up to the Hickman Natural Bridge. It’s only a 1.8 mile hike, round-trip. I don’t actually know why they decided to call it a natural bridge when it’s just another arch. Either way, I think arches are cool and it was worth the hike. There was an interesting field of black rocks for a good portion of the initial hike. There was also another, unmarked arch early on in the trail. I thought it looked awesome (so awesome, its the featured image at the top of this post).

I ended the day by 2pm, going back to the same place I camped out at last night. There was no cellphone reception anywhere near the park and no towns nearby that have more than a gas station or small restaurant, so I wasn’t able to Internet that afternoon. This also meant no cheeseburgers. I settled for a couple tuna sandwiches and some chips. I didn’t even write, it was just too hot and I didn’t want to do much.

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

July 24, 2015 Categories Camper Van, Hiking, Road Trips, Travel, USA

Miles driven: 278.8
Miles hiked: 5.3+

I camped outside of town last night and awoke slightly after 6:30 this morning before heading back into town. I meant to get gas while I was in town last night, but completely spaced out and forgot about it. Canyonlands’ closest entry point is 31 miles from Moab and since I knew nothing about the park, I wanted to make sure I had enough gas to get there, drive around, and get back.

The biggest thing I noticed was the lack of people. There was almost no one at all in the park compared to Arches. Every place I stopped had ample parking, with the exception of Upheaval Dome, which I had to circle around twice waiting for a spot to open. I only did the Island in the Sky area of the park, as the second entrance for The Needles area is almost 100 miles away from where I entered. There’s also a section called The Maze, but it’s very remote and the only roads out there are for four wheel drive vehicles.

My first stop was the Shafer Trail Overlook. This is a 4×4 road that goes down into the canyons and leads out to the White Rim Road, a 100-mile long road that follows the white rims of the canyon. I’ve seen pictures people have taken from the trail and it looks awesome, but Henrietta would not be able to make the drive. The trail itself reminds me a lot of the Moki Dugway. Google for pictures of the Shafer Trail, as the view from the overlook does not compare.

It’s an interesting drive through the park, as almost every stop focuses on the canyons, but the drive itself is entirely plains.

Next stop was the Mesa Arch, a very easy 0.5 mile hike out to the arch I’ve seen on tons of postcards. The second picture of the arch below looks like dragon skin to me.

From there, I headed down to the Grand View Point Overlook, a fairly easy 2.0 mile hike along the rim of the canyon. It’s hard to capture the depth and magnitude of what you’re looking at in photographs. There’s a bulldozer in one of the pictures, but it’s impossible to see except in the original picture size; that’s how small it looks compared to everything else.

Next I headed over to Whale Rock, a 1.0 mile hike up a huge rock (kinda looks like a whale… imagine that).

Just around the corner from Whale Rock is Upheaval Dome, which was by far the most crowded of all the stops in the park. There’s an 8.3 mile loop around the entire area, but I was not feeling it. Instead, I just did the two overlooks which is only about 1.8 miles. There was a really awesome tree at the first overlook. I’ve seen a lot of cool trees in the past few days.

My last stop was at the Green River Overlook. It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but the river is green, if you didn’t guess. I’m not sure what causes it, as I didn’t read all the  information boards (assuming one of them said why).

It seems like most of the stuff in Canyonlands is more for those who have offroad vehicles. In most of the pictures you can see the 100-mile White Rim Road and it gets so close to all of the places in the park. The Maze is another thing that would be awesome to see, just based on the name, but Henrietta is not a Jeep. Oddly enough, I did sell my Jeep to build her.

I ended up driving over to Capitol Reef National Park later in the evening. I got there around sunset, and although it was sometimes blinding to drive with the sun kicking my eyes’ asses (yes, my eyes have asses), it was an extremely beautiful drive through the park. Capitol Reef is a narrow, but tall park, so the drive across it is less than 30 miles. I drove all the way through the park just to get an idea of what was there and got gas on the opposite side before driving back and camping out at a small parking area just outside the East side of the park.