I did all the wall sheathing by myself and I will flat out admit that it was not the most pleasant experience. As it turns out, it’s somewhat of a challenge trying to hold a 4x8ft sheet of plywood up, verify it’s level, and nail it in place without any assistance. I’ll also admit that there are a couple of mistakes I made, but luckily they get covered up and no one will ever even know.
Luckily I had help putting the roof sheathing on. It took me over a day to do all the wall sheathing by myself and it only took a few hours to get the roof done. If I had to do the roof myself, it would have taken significantly longer. I didn’t take any pictures during the process, though.
Once all the sheathing was on, I wrapped the entire thing in Tyvek house wrap. I bought a 9ft high roll so I could cover more area with less seams.
Then I cut out all the holes for the windows and door and put down a layer of flashing tape on all the window sills. If water ever gets to the actual window sill, the sill flashing helps to shed the water away from the untreated wood.
With all the sills prepared, it was time to install the windows. I special ordered all of my windows because I wanted very specific sizes and colors. Almost all of my windows are 4ft wide, except the one above the door which is only 3ft wide. I went with a black exterior finish and white on the interior. Some people might think that’s odd, but I like the balance it represents. I also ordered the windows without a J channel, that way I could put my wood siding tight up against the window and be able to caulk it to keep water out.
Installing the windows is another area I had some help with, as it’s much easier to have someone inside the building making sure the gaps around all the edges are the same while I stayed outside and nailed the window in place. Every window has caulking around the sides and the top, but not the bottom. The bottom isn’t caulked so that if water gets on the sill, it has a place to drain out from. After everything was nailed in place, I went ahead of finished up the flashing. The window flashing goes on each side of the window first, extending down about six inches, then there’s a final piece of flashing that goes across the top which should overlap the side flashing. Just like with the caulk, the bottom does not get any flashing; that way water can still get out if it manages to reach the sill.
Lastly, I got the door installed. I didn’t take any pictures during the install, but the door gets sill flashing just like the windows. Unlike the windows, however, you do caulk the bottom of the door. I put down three decent beads of caulk all the way across the bottom and about six inches up the sides. I put two extra long screws into every hinge to get a good grip on the studs around the opening. On the non-hinge side, I have long screws through the door catch and additional screws hidden at the top and bottom under the weather strip.
Just like I ordered my windows without the J channel, I ordered my door without any brick moulding. I will be using trim around my door that matches the siding. You can’t see a lot of detail of the outside of the door since it’s black and the shadow from the tree is blocking the light, but if you’re wondering, it’s a carpenter style door. I was originally planning on having a full glass panel door, but couldn’t find one that matched my specific design and in the width that I wanted. The nice thing about the carpenter door is that I can put my rooster door knocker on there that I bought last year while traveling. I bought a modern style door knob (brushed nickel, of course) and I’m hoping it will have some cool contrast with the rustic wood I have for siding.